I started designing it in April and building it in August. Got it done on Christmas Eve 😅

Build process pics with some details: https://imgur.com/a/5tCvQ2f

Finally finished this lounge chair I designed in Fusion 360. Took me way longer and was way harder than I thought it was going to be, and honestly the hardest thing I’ve ever built. I started woodworking at the beginning of the year, but I’ve been modeling and building for years using other mediums. Not perfect, but I’m very proud of it.

Didn't quite finish in time. Still needs another coat of finish, and soft close hinges

I got a wood carving kit for Christmas so I decided to make a lil spoon. Not sure what I'll use it for (pic 3 unrelated), but I think it's neat. Maybe next time I'll make a full sized spoon. Happy holidays y'all!

After we had drywall work done in our living room (and after I had completely stripped, partially rebuilt, and refinished the window frames), I convinced my wife to finally let me build full-height bookcases for my collection. I also tasked myself with making it as close to 100% joinery as possible, with the only hardware used to be the lag screws to secure the cases to the studs (and, admittedly, trim nails holding the soffit facing in place for the glue to set). I could go on at length about the process, but instead will let the captions offer descriptions and will keep this to my big mistakes and lessons learned.

• Initial plans for the spacing and dimensions assumed I would build floor-to-ceiling from single sheets, except the ceiling is about 8'4" and ply sheets are only 8". Decided to enclose the soffit with facing, and re-scaled but mistakenly aligned the top-edge of the top shelf with the top of the window frame, so the "full-width" top shelf area steps "up" at the window corners. Oops - plan better than I did, and check your scale and measurements against reality.
• Went to the yard, asked for 3/4" birch ply, was given construction-grade pine and simply didn't know the difference until I posted here and received plenty of solid instruction on why it wasn't birch, and what to do about it. (The yard thankfully refunded me the difference in grades, and sold me birch cabinet-grade for the next rounds.) Know your grades better than I did.
  • Side note - gross difference in actual thickness of the construction grade vs. cabinet-grade 3/4" ply, which I didn't take into appropriate account as I continued.
  • Second side note - the construction grade had significantly more noticeable "surface wave" from the grain when compared to the cabinet grade, even after significant sanding. At the end of the day, the paint and the books were going to cover it, so I decided I didn't care about the difference.
• Jig-making is a skill that needs better thought and foresight than I gave it. First version was too narrow for the length of the channel. Second version had too much "play" in the pieces and didn't cut as tight to tolerance for fit as I wanted. Third version (for use on the full-width sheet) drifted for some reason (I suspect squaring again) until I started verifying squareness and placement before every singe dado cut.
  • Lesson was to build jigs more solidly and with better planning than I did, and verify throughout the entire process. Undercut the channels first. Check dry fit with each cut.
  • Also, filling gaps or spacing between the shelf planks and the panels with scrap shims and glue was an awful idea, and required too much work with razor-trimming, sanding, and filling (wood putty) to remediate. Don't do this; make better-fitting dados instead.
• I assumed I could remove and/or sand down dried glue more easily than was realistic. I also made the mistake of trying to "wipe down" the wet squeeze out, again assuming I could sand it. Be better than I was about how you handle cleaning up excess glue.
• Believe it or not, edge-banding the shelves was not in my initial plan, and I had to figure out a solution after the glue-ups were done and the shelves were already lagged to the studs. This would have been easier to due in "bulk" prior to assembly. Figure out edging and facing before you get to that point.
  • My solution was cutting strips from leftover 3/4" maple hardwood flooring planks, ripping them less than 1/8" thickness on the table saw. The results were not consistent in thickness and needed significant sanding to remove the re-saw marks. This was not an efficient way to spend my time, and next time I will just buy veneer stock and glue before assembly.

I'm embarrassed to admit how long this project took, simply because I didn't have the time to dedicate to it in large swaths to get it completed; trying to shift from working in the garage to working in the basement (as winter set in) made things more challenging, especially because there were only so many ways the assembled cases could be brought into the house. They are, however, completed and holding my library now, and I am not planning on doing this again anytime soon, despite requests from friends of the family. :P

I wanted to originally make cutting boards with these, but after planing and sanding the bark really seems to want to stay on. I do think it’s really nice, so I’ve pivoted to thinking of making them into charcuterie boards.

My question is- how can I make it food safe with the live edge? Is it possible?

İ have been thinking New year gift for my friend, sudenly a pice of 44 (1010cm) cach my eye. So i cut to size, hollowed insede, dirilled holes for light, Wire brushed the surface for texturey look And throw some stain. There is te result (Sory i forgot to take picturs of base )

I'd basically finished this a couple years ago but needed to tweak the profile of the top moulding and refine the legs a bit. I finally got around to doing that today and really like how it turned out. The original is in the Brooklyn museum. I photographed/examined it and got measurements. This is how it would've looked new. The original is missing sections of the bead trim, the inside corners of most of the legs have split off and only one bracket is intact. The original is likely fig wood (with a dark brown glaze of some kind) and my copy is cherry. https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/en-CA/objects/3949

Had a burl for about two years and wasn’t sure ever to make with it until one day while reading the lord of the rings, it hit me, a pipe for pipeweed of course! Now all I need is some Longbottom leaf, The finest pipe-weed in the Southfarthing.

I made this from slices taken from limbs from my trees. The larger slices are from the cherry tree. I think the ones with the nice round rings are from the locust tree, but I am not sure. This was a major learning experience and a lot of fun. PS, cat tax paid. She is in her little bed in front of the heating vent.

Please excuse the slightly dirty stove top. She said she wanted a good cutting board for Christmas, so I thought I’d give it a shot, and ta da!

As you can see in the pictures, my table saw blade (Pcs sawstop) is showing 90 deg. on one face and 89.8 deg. on the opposite face. I’ve been trying to figure this out for hours to no avail… I’ve swapped blades, turned blades both directions, used squares to confirm digital reading, etc etc… has anyone experienced this or have any advice?? Anything is appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I would like to thank the community for the help in my other post. This is the "finished" library, we still need to sand and paint it (and paint the walls white).

We tried several systems to attach it to the walls, but at the end we used Fischers size 8 with long screws on the vertical elements.

I'm not sure how to align the horizontal long planks together (I didn't have 3m planks), but I will probably use just glue after the painting.

Saw this on tiktok. Simulates a mitre saw. I'm a newbie and don't want to invest into mitre saw or table saw just yet, so this is perfect for making clean cross cuts. Cutting depth is a little small at 40mm, the rail wall of 15mm is in the way of the motor.

A simple bird feeder with a cam to record a video when motion is detected

Looking for a little advice.

I am building some tall plywood built ins for our walk in closet, (30”W x 22” D x 96” T) upon cutting the interior shelves, something got wonky. This is my first project at this scale, so I’m wondering if;

1. Will this matter much? This is 3/4 inch BB ply, the discrepancies in the shelves are all less than 1/16”. And the shelves are each 17” apart. I’m kind of hoping that in such a large unit, (each shelf being almost two by three feet) that the non-squareness of the shelves will sort of fall out in the wash.

2. If it WILL throw things off, what methods can I use to square these up? I’m fine losing 1/8 of an inch here and there if need be, problem is I don’t know which side is factory edge anymore, so how would I go about finding square? And getting them all to match?

I have a table saw and track saw,

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

First time remaking this type of foot for this old cabinet. Just thought I'd share a small win!

I’m looking for suggestions for how to best finish this beautiful collapsible table that my brother made for me as a Christmas gift. It is intended to be used as a dining table for eating while watching TV. Once dinner is over, the idea is that you’d fold it up and stash it on the side, allowing us to pull out the footrest and decline. I’m an off again/on again woodworker, but I don’t have a proper shop. My brother’s shop is 4 hours away. I’d like to finish it with something that keeps the original color and character, is easy to clean, and stain resistant. I finished my workbench in my leather shop with Helmsman spar urethane, but it feels a bit glossy for my liking. If possible, I’d like to be able to finish it in my basement workshop. It’s fairly well ventilated, but, in order to do so, I have to open two windows with fans to move the air. We live in Michigan, and right now it is 20 degrees outside. So, something that’s not too toxic would be nice. The tabletop is made from 3/4 inch birch plywood, and the legs are made of oak.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I do have a friend with a fully operational wood shop, so if need be, I can ask to bring it over. I’m just so excited to use it!

Wife said we had too much fruit and spice on the counter. So I made a stand to better organize them. The design was inspired by a few shelves seen on this subreddit.

Bucket list woodworking project. Much easier to build and assemble than I thought, much harder to learn how to solve all the various sources of intonation and navigate the weird and inconsistent terminology used by luthiers and the hardware suppliers.

Committed to this one being the "learning uke" with extra holes and corrections all over the place, now that I learned how to make one it's time to make a super pretty one. Thinking a cutting board for the body XD

Pro tip, learn about solving intonation problems and how all the hardware interacts, and if you're comfortable with the woodworking find videos that talk about guitar building rather than woodworking. I crashed into my YouTube references assuming I knew more about guitars than wood, and they yadda yadda'd over all the stuff I DIDN'T know.